Pasqua in Sicilia

For Easter this year, I went with my roommate, Angela, to her home in Sicily. It was really different from any of my other travels because I was always with Sicilians, so I got to experience a different lifestyle and see Sicily through their eyes. It was interesting because Sicilians have a lot to say about their island and about their people. Everyone told me about the problems in Sicily with corruption, the trash buildup in certain cities, lack of jobs, and the closed-mindedness of the region. These same Sicilians love their land for its food, beautiful weather, and humanity. There's a big divide between North and South in Italy, and Southerners are considered ignorant and crude by Northerners while Southerners consider Northerners cold and arrogant. I heard many times that in Sicily, there are "essere-umani" (human beings), implying that in the North, you'll find something else.

In Sicily, even someone from Milan is considered a foreigner, so to put it lightly, I did not just blend in. Most people were really excited to meet me and were always curious about my impressions of Sicily. Every time someone learned that I'm American, I got the same question: Why are you in Sicily?! This question was repeated more emphatically when they learned that I'm from California. I spent a lot of time answering questions about America...then trying to defend my own citizenship after saying that I don't drink Coke and don't like eating eggs for breakfast. "Tu sei poco americana" (You're not very American). It was kind of fun being The American because it made me feel very important. Pronouncing "Manhattan" or "Brad Pitt" correctly made people swoon. Angela's friend who hosted me on the island of Vulcano said I couldn't climb some rock structure because he couldn't let an American die on his island.

Angela told me that Sicily is another world (as compared to the rest of Italy), but I found that Sicily is more Italian than the rest of the country. Sicilians are even friendlier and more outgoing. Life is even slower. The bureaucracy is worse. Streets are even more chaotic. The food is fresher. Family is even more important. The sun is brighter, and the sky is bluer. It's a beautiful place.

The beginning of a very long train ride. 11 hours to be exact.

Granita with brioche. I miss this. A LOT.
Fish market.


Messina
A beautiful beach littered with trash.

We struck up conversation with the pescatori (fisherman) in Messina. Angela just walked up and asked what they thought about the proposed bridge that would cross the Strait of Messina...then we talked for half an hour. Only in Sicily.

At a fruit stand.
Delicious Easter-themed pastries.
At the Duomo of Messina.



The view from Angela's terrace. Her whole family laughed when they saw that I had made this my desktop background. Angela said that when she comes to visit me, she'll have to take a picture of a drier.
Preparing the ciambelle for Easter.
Ciambelle are a traditional Sicilian Easter dessert. Pie dough cut into festive shapes, then filled with hard boiled eggs, decorated, and baked. They're then given out to family and friends.
The finished products. (They obviously have a lot of family and friends...as do all Sicilians).
Milazzo

Il Carciofo. A rock formation named after an artichoke. I think you have to look from another angle to see it...or artichokes look very different in Sicily.


Milazzo is a more industrial city in the North East area of Sicily where Angela lives. Everyone told me to look at the skyline which they called "Chicago/Manhattan/San Francisco by night." They asked if I agreed...I did not. Still beautiful though.

Vulcano. One of the Aeolian Islands.

Our host in Vulcano, Gianluca. The one who couldn't let an American die on his island. Angela called him the day before we came to visit to make sure that it would still be okay. Trying to be polite, she said that we would be happy if he could meet us for pizza and maybe show us around a bit. Surprisingly, Gianluca became really angry. He wanted to host us and make us dinner and was offended that Angela wouldn't let him make a good impression.

So of course, we had to let Gianluca barbecue for us because we didn't want to offend him.

And we were only being polite by eating up all of the delicious bracciole.
Black sand beach.
Hiking up the crater.

Nothing like the sweet smell of sulfur after a long hike.

Valle dei mostri

Catania

One of many churches in the city of Catania. I think we saw a church on every block. Not exaggerating.

For Easter.

The elephant is the symbol of Catania.
The Duomo of Catania.
Catania's famous fish market.
When all the vendors saw me taking pictures of their fish, they were eager to get pictures with me. This is me realizing that I just got soaked with fish juice.


Sicilianissimo.

Arrancini! Delicious fried risotto balls filled with meat sauce. From these pictures, you might get the impression that I ate a lot on this trip. You would not be wrong. If someone had typed up a transcript of my trip, I think you'd find that the most repeated word was "MANGIA!" EAT! After eating a giant four course meal at Angela's aunt's house, Angela's uncle turned to her and said "I'm worried that she hasn't eaten enough." This is how I gained five pounds.


At the Bellini Park. The Italian opera composer, Vincenzo Bellini, was born in Catania, so there are many tributes to him throughout the city.
Taormina

Taormina is considered the biggest tourist attraction in the North East region of Sicily. I disappointed everyone by saying I had never heard of it before.

The Greek Theater.


A church floor decorated with breadcrumbs and flowers in honor of Easter.
As I said before, Sicilians are very friendly, and almost everyone I met told me to stay with them whenever I want to come back. It's nice to know I'll always have a place to stay in Sicily.